What did you do photowise today? Shooting, Editing, Thinking...

last night (not today although i DO have some thoughts about today)

retiring a player's number is a big BIG deal. pretty much the ultimate recognition one can get other than maybe a spot in the sport's respective Hall of Fame.

i dont know if the league the local team plays in, will ever create a HoF (its only in its 15th year of existence and has had as many as 14 teams and as few as 5. and its not like they started low and have continually increased! start in the middle add teams, lose teams add more teams, lose more teams!!!)

last night was the first ever retirement ceremony id ever seen and as far as im aware only the 2nd or 3rd in the league (Federal Prospect Hockey League)

being the Head Photographer, i got primo 'on ice' positioning so here are a few images
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ive seen several different things about making paper negatives. you can scan them and convert in Ps or Lr but you can ALSO make paper reversal prints. you expose the paper, develop it, bleach it, then redevelop. i dont understand the process there but hey, its an intersting concept.

i found a guy on youtube who does these and he shoots and then processes using a single sheet, film older that was specifically created for this process in that it drops the paper out of the holder and straight into a light tight tray for processing.

well i ordered up the chemicals i needed. Sodium Bisulfate, Sodium Sulfite, Potassium Permanganate. i already had paper developer.

film is next to impossible to find and i dont want to try and cut down 4x5 film (in the dark) for 2x3 so i used my 2x3 Crown Graphic to shoot the images on the paper. paper can be cut under the safelight.

i mixed the chemicals in the bathroom last night just using aluminum baking trays for the chemicals and promptly spilled the clearing bath (used to remove the residue bleach color fro the paper) on the floor. this morning i notice that there is a residue spot from it. ill have to get it cleaned up. but back to the process

i developed the paper and they went straight to max-D black. it was interesting seeing the reverse of normal normal processing, as the image faded away during bleaching. when put back in the developer for the final product, i found that following the guidelines i was given, i need to shoot these at 'established ASA/ISO values' and metered exposures (i THINK) paper is about a 3 on the ASA/ISO scale and it was imparted to me to over expose by 2 stops. way too over exposed so i shot 2 more images, with 'as metered' and then '+1 stop'. i havent developed these yet though.


the othe thing i did was take my Olympus XA (i found it a couple of months ago, some might recall), and my YashicaMat 124 out to photograph a few things downtown. the Olympus was loaded from when it got set aside and not knowing what was in it, i carefully rewound the film until it disengaged the take up reel so i could open it and grab a sneak peak. Tri-X pan! score....... not Tmax 400 but TRI-flipping-X.
 
The theory behind reversal processing of black and white film is actually straightforward. Where light hits the film, it creates a latent image, which becomes visible by developing it. The parts the light hit turn black, the rest are unchanged (oversimplification, but close enough). The fixer dissolves away the undeveloped parts, leaving clear film. That's standard processing.

For reversal, stop the development (most developers only work in alkaline conditions) with an acid stop bath. Now fog the film, either by exposing to daylight or chemical fogging. Then bleach out the silver image, giving clear film, and redevelop to cause the originally unexposed, but now exposed by the reversal exposure film, to darken.

Paper is usually taken as being 3 ASA (or ISO if you're modern). The biggest problem is paper has a much smaller exposure range - it's the real limiting factor in darkroom prints and exposure can be critical.

As far as I know, Harman are still selling their direct reversal paper. I have a portrait of me made at the Harman stand at a photography show. They exposed a 10x8 sheet in a large format camera, used flash and processed on the spot in a mobile darkroom.
 
The theory behind reversal processing of black and white film is actually straightforward. Where light hits the film, it creates a latent image, which becomes visible by developing it. The parts the light hit turn black, the rest are unchanged (oversimplification, but close enough). The fixer dissolves away the undeveloped parts, leaving clear film. That's standard processing.

For reversal, stop the development (most developers only work in alkaline conditions) with an acid stop bath. Now fog the film, either by exposing to daylight or chemical fogging. Then bleach out the silver image, giving clear film, and redevelop to cause the originally unexposed, but now exposed by the reversal exposure film, to darken.

Paper is usually taken as being 3 ASA (or ISO if you're modern). The biggest problem is paper has a much smaller exposure range - it's the real limiting factor in darkroom prints and exposure can be critical.

As far as I know, Harman are still selling their direct reversal paper. I have a portrait of me made at the Harman stand at a photography show. They exposed a 10x8 sheet in a large format camera, used flash and processed on the spot in a mobile darkroom.
yep and yep!

the process for this was no flashing of the paper after the stop bath. it was clearly just overexposed. im not sure that even with the proper GOSSEN branded battery adapter, my Luna Pro is metering correctly.

the film holder and tray processing kit is by Jaggle. its really an interesting bit of kit, just not available in 2x3. yet
 
I'm more familiar with the Lunasix/Lunasix 3 meters (I have several) and they have an adjustment screw to align the needle to the correct null point. My original Lunasix wax bought in December 1965 and is still the one I use, so theyhave proved reliable in my experience.

I have a Lunapro though, so I could check it...
 
I'm more familiar with the Lunasix/Lunasix 3 meters (I have several) and they have an adjustment screw to align the needle to the correct null point. My original Lunasix wax bought in December 1965 and is still the one I use, so theyhave proved reliable in my experience.

I have a Lunapro though, so I could check it...
using the battery check, it reads properly. in the red but ive never really gotten results i though i should with it. never seemed to be the same as any camera meter i compared it to
 
If it's not going to cause massive complications with customs and whatnot, I could post one of my meters to you to compare. My Lunasixes all agreed with each other when I last checked them.
 
I took about 70 pictures with my 7Ti but somehow fumblefingered my settings to RAW. It takes about three minutes for my computer to change a photo from RAW to J-PEG, so I just deleted most of them.
That’s an awfully long time to convert a raw to a jpeg!
 
That’s an awfully long time to convert a raw to a jpeg
My laptop is over 10 years old, still running Windows 10. I had to put a new hard drive in about three years ago, never has been fast since. The program I'm using is the old Canon Photo Pro. Most of the ones I deleted weren't any good anyway. I was down at the lake and the gulls were flying and fishing nearby. All I had was my 50mm on the T7i, so it was really reaching. I should've known better to even try, but you know how that goes.
 
My laptop is over 10 years old, still running Windows 10. I had to put a new hard drive in about three years ago, never has been fast since. The program I'm using is the old Canon Photo Pro. Most of the ones I deleted weren't any good anyway. I was down at the lake and the gulls were flying and fishing nearby. All I had was my 50mm on the T7i, so it was really reaching. I should've known better to even try, but you know how that goes.
my Dell ( :whistle: )is 10 years old as well. running Win10, and i used a) Adobe LrC or b) Adobe DNG converter. maybe try the converter program (free) vs an old Canon software?

its worth a shot
 
my Dell ( :whistle: )is 10 years old as well. running Win10, and i used a) Adobe LrC or b) Adobe DNG converter. maybe try the converter program (free) vs an old Canon software?

its worth a shot
Best I can tell the DNG converter only converts to DNG (whatever that is). I just like to use jpeg, really the only thing I know how to use. I use Windows Photo Explorer for editing, and it's not even supported by Windows anymore. It doesn't do a whole lot, but I don't do a whole lot of editing either. I've tried LR, Gimp and others, they're just way above my pay grade.
 
Best I can tell the DNG converter only converts to DNG (whatever that is). I just like to use jpeg, really the only thing I know how to use. I use Windows Photo Explorer for editing, and it's not even supported by Windows anymore. It doesn't do a whole lot, but I don't do a whole lot of editing either. I've tried LR, Gimp and others, they're just way above my pay grade.
ive used the windows photo explorer too, if its a quick simple jpeg edit. my Whatsits, were done with that.

im going to lump about 4-5 days into one post...

tuesday flew from detroit to NYC for the 'day before' New York Fashion Week. shot a few photos along the way with the p&s.

wednesday went to Sony Hall (the venue for Runway7 productions) to start shooting only to find out it was just a casting call and no actual fashion. all of the potential models wore basic black (which is the typical clothing) with a 'number bib' (paper sheet with numbers on them) and came out. did the regular runway walk and hoped that one of the designers in the audience liked what they saw, and picked their number. there were over 3,000 models. i quit after the first 2 hour batch. none of the models really care about their casting call walk photos anyway.

was tipped that one of the designers in town, was looking for a couple of photographers for THEIR show wednesday evening but after 3 messages to them, and the show time having come and gone, i decided they were interested in having me there.

thursday i walked around NYC, caught the subway from 34th street (just south of Times Square) down to about 2 blocks from the World Trade Center. shot some photos down there, walked to B&H Photo for a lap through Photo Mecca and then back to the subway and back to the hotel.

as has been my experience, its best to get to the venue plenty earlier than Press/Media call times. well initially Press was supposed to be 5pm (for a 7 oclock show) so getting there at 3pm (again based on experience) was my plan. there was NO ONE there for Press call.:wtf: i hung around and ALSO as has been my experience the house (production company) didnt really have a good grasp on things and we waited. luckily i was there as early as i was because as it got closer to 5pm, and more photogs showed up, and the house/venue moving us around, Security got very vocal about making sure the late(r) comers knew, i and a couple of others were there long before they were and no, they were NOT going to go to the head of the line. they let us in the door, then held us for another 45 minutes because the room was in use for the HMUAs and models. :rcloud:typically theyre off site (across the street) but since there was only ONE SHOW (Runway7's VIP show) they didnt get the other location.

show starts, i shot about 1500 images, walked back to my hotel, packed everything so i could get up, shower, and get downstairs for my car to the airport.

WHEW! :zzz:

got to the airport friday morning, flew home, started editing fashion show photos. went to the first of two hockey games this weekend (im team photographer) and shot that game. came home and edited those images. went to bed.

got up saturday morning, edited the rest of the fashion show stuff, got everything ready for game #2, then went to it. came home saturday night, edited the pictures and went to bed.

got up today, and packed everything up for a DIFFERENT fashion gig shoot. thats a post for another time. ive got editing to do...
 
here are a few from this weekend's hockey

Friday night was "Star Wars" night. complete with specialty sweaters that were auctioned off after the game with proceeds going to the ARC. ARC used to stand for something but it's just a name now. its to help people with intellectual and developmental disabilities.

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some game images

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